The cut has been made...let's move on! I used the box underneath to steady the frame while I tried to get the first muffler clamp on. Another trick was to use a cable wrap to hold the back end up as well.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Installing the Front Battery Box
The last time I talked about this I showed how it was made, both the box and support structure but I didn't get around to actually installing the thing until I got my main brackets back from the welder. Those brackets need to be able to hold over 160 lbs of batteries.
I hate to cut fiberglass but in this case I have to. Besides, in the original plans with the GTE subframe, a Bradley front end must be cut! Very similiar to what I'm doing here.
The cut has been made...let's move on! I used the box underneath to steady the frame while I tried to get the first muffler clamp on. Another trick was to use a cable wrap to hold the back end up as well.
Oops. The box didn't quite clear the steering box. A quick slice from my sabre saw and we're back in business. At one point I thought maybe I was going to have to install the clamps with the box in place.
Here's a 160 lbs of batteries and it's holding just fine. I jumped up and down on the front bumper and there was no sliding between the main bracket and the chassis.
The cut has been made...let's move on! I used the box underneath to steady the frame while I tried to get the first muffler clamp on. Another trick was to use a cable wrap to hold the back end up as well.
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Hoping the wooden battery box is just a short term setup?
ReplyDeleteThe original Pulsar used wooden boxes which seemed to work well since they don't conduct electricity. Fiberglass would be the best best. Either way, I just want to keep the water out since that will damage the BMS connections and electronics. Sealed lead batteries must be sealed up due to the gases that leak out during charging and discharging.
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