New Motor

After getting some advice from an EV Engineer, I decided to buy an Impulse 9 motor from Netgain.  Needless to say, this is better technology than the old 8 inch Advanced DC motor I had been using.  This 8 inch motor was able to easily go to 120 volts but not the 156 volts I have for my battery pack.  The Impulse 9 is able to go to 170 volts without "advancing" the motor, or making the motor take in more volts than what it was intended for.
I just happen to buy the last one they had until September when they expect to finish building more.  I saved an extra $100 in shipping by having it delivered to where I work, which has a dock, versus my residence.  I had some help getting the motor in my trunk but had to cut it out of the cardboard box to take it out of the trunk - tight fit.
I was excited to get the new motor but wanted to wait a day after putting on the adapter again, to make sure all the red lock tight was dried. This was the same procedure as before, (see previous entry), except I had to use a 5/16th bolts to hold the hub on and buy some bigger lugs to attach the cables the the motor bolts.

Overall the motor is about 10 lbs heavier and since it's a 9 inch motor with the mounts for an 8 inch (for folks like me that want to upgrade but not have to buy a new adapter) it's wider.  I managed to wrestle that baby into the transaxle in about 45 minutes.
The test run with the wheels off the ground seemed to go great - no ugly noises!

Yet Another EMPI Brake Mod

I painted the rear calipers and rotors.  Not necessarily because I wanted them to match the car but I remember reading on one person's post how the first time these EMPI calipers got wet - they immediately rusted.  I used Duplicolor and did several light coats per instructions.  Be ready to wait several days for the paint to cure, otherwise it will chip off.

So, as I was putting it all together, the brake pads were giving me some problems.  Come to find out there's this little dimple on the metal side that needed to be grinded off because it hits the master cylinder.  Needless to say, this only needs to be done on the inner pad.

One of these things is NOT like the other!

What you see are two clutch brakes.  They are put in the flywheel housing and covered by the Clutch Pressure plate.  The splines on the tansaxle slide through the middle of this clutch brake.  All this is done to give me a clutch so I can coast downhill.  We have a lot of 5% hills here in this neck of the woods.
The funny thing is that one of these clutch brakes fits and the other doesn't.
LESSON LEARNED: Check to make sure the clutch brake fits over the transaxle splines before you go through all this trouble.
So...the company that I ordered the original clutch brake from sent me the wrong one. ( The correct one is on the left.)

In addition, the 1967 transaxle had two different versions, one was a 6 volt and the other a 12 volt.  The guy that made my adaptor sent me a flywheel.  And probably guessed it by now - he sent the wrong one.  So, I ground down the flywheel teeth with a grinder and now it fits.

You would think that after fixing two problems I'd have everything solved, right?  Oh no, everything comes in a set of three.  Take a look at what happened next.

Once I took the motor out - again, (sigh)  I can see where the clutch pressure plate was chewing away at part of the transaxle bell housing.  Looks like my adaptor assembly was off by 1/4 inch.

But at least the wheels turn!!!! 

The original plan was to take the motor off my Sparrow and use it since it's capable of handling the 156V battery pack I have.  Then at some point in time put the motor you see above in the Sparrow. This motor will only handle 120V.  However, the Sparrow motor is unique in it has a longer shaft, collar around the bottom of the shaft and some tach comm at the bottom.  To try and buy another motor, like the Sparrow, would be expensive.

So the choice was to keep the Bradley at 120V or try to fit the Sparrow motor.  I chose plan C - Rather than let $1600 worth of lithiums sit around, I bought a new Impulse 9 motor for my Bradley GT II.  It will be here soon.  : )

Pedal Assembly Replacement

The brake pedal wasn't returning completely after you step on the brakes.  I figured it was a bad spring.  I called Cip1 and they said they didn't sell a spring and I'd have to buy the whole enchilada.  OK, it was probably going to need to be replaced anyway at some point in time.  Better sooner than later?

Make sure you completely disconnect the clutch cable and gas cable from the rear first!

Taking out the old wasn't too bad.  There's two 17mm bolts that holds it all in place.  Then you'll need to remove the spring on the brake pedal, then the brake pin device. There's a C clamp holding it in place.  Pull the assembly out and disconnect the clutch cable. The gas pedal cable comes next then the whole thing should come out.

Yes, that's ugly.  Time to clean it up before I put the new in.

Putting the new wasn't too bad, I just hate working in tight places.  I'm NOT a contortionist.  I had to do this several times as the clutch pedal kept falling forward and the cable would come disconnected.  I had my loving wife help by holding the clutch pedal in place while I connected everything up in back.

Probably a little hard to see but there's a nice roller behind the gas pedal.  The brake pedal works fine as does the gas pedal.  But the clutch continues to want to flop all the way toward the seat.  (this can cause the clutch cable to fall off) One of the guys on Bradley GT suggested mounting the cable with a zip tie - great idea.  The next time it falls off - I'm there!

The answer to the flopping clutch was to use a 2 1/4 inch 2X4 wedged between the firewall and metal tabs on the bottom backside of the pedals.  OK this isn't a permanent fix but for the time being this works and I have an idea of what dimensions to use.

To make the gas pedal work I had to cut the assembly.

What do you expect from EMPI?  Their stuff needs fixing, even when you buy it new.

I also saw where on thesamba.com there's some improvements to the pedal assembly.  One that makes the gap wider between the brake and clutch for folks with big feet and one that replaces the hook assembly to attach the clutch cable with a permanent non-slipping bearing device.  Good stuff.

BMS Monitor

The MiniBMS has a monitor that tells you a lot of info.  You can see their website for details.  I had bought of these for my Sparrow because the original Link 10 EV monitor never worked.  I decided to mount it in the consul next to the Big Red Buttons.  This will give me even more data that's not on my Blueview Monitor.

It connects to the battery pack as shown in the picture below.  It did require a direct feed from the battery so you can accurately measure how much juice went in and out of the pack.

I made the buss bar out of some aluminum bars I had laying around.

Door Panels

After I put in some sound dampening material into each door, I then removed the brown door handles.  At some point someone had made a fake material based front for the panels.  It was moldy, smelly and old.  In the trash it went.  I used duct tape to seal the holes for the fake panel and then filled the holes with fiberglass repair material. Sanded it down, primer, then paint.  I think it's a big improvement.  Besides the mouse house is gone.

The original inside handles were supposed to be totally different from what is seen here.  I'm uncertain when the switch was made.  I notice a lot of Bradleys for sale that show the inside of the doors are often missing the panels.  Now I should look into putting some knobs on the handles, these are 3/8 of an inch.  I will also put in a long hang down strap to pull the door down after you slide in.

MINI BMS and Charger

The batteries are in and despite not being able to get the wheels to turn, I went ahead and hooked up the MiniBMS and battery charger.  You can google MiniBMS and see what they have to offer.  I have used this now for two years and am very happy with it.  Each module costs about $12 and you need one for each battery.  I'm using the 3.6 cutoff version so the batteries never overcharge.
The Manzanita Micro PFC charger is one of the best you can buy.  At least that's what the owner says.  : )  The nice thing is once you have it set to your pack's voltage, it will automatically throttle back one it starts to get close to full.  Combine that with the MiniBMS which turns off the charger when one battery hits over 3.6V and you have a great combination that ensures your batteries don't get toasted.  At $120 a battery that's a whole lot of toast!!!

This is the headboard, or at least an older version of what Dimitri sells now.  In addition to turning off the charger it will also slow the car if a battery gets too low, that way you can limp home.  I had this happen once when some batteries that I had added to the pack weren't balanced with the rest of the pack.

The PFC will take anything from 110 to 220V and 20 amp to 50 amps!!  That's some serious voltage.  I have several adapters I've made to plug into 3 wire 110V and 220V.

It's hard to see but each battery has a red light.  Right now the batteries are top charging.  After the BMS turns off the charger because one battery has hit over 3.6V, I run the charger again at just under 2 amps, this allows the pack to stay in balance.  Balancing is a hot topic amongst the Yahoo Thundersky Forum Group.  Several folks are against it, some are for, some do a bottom balance.....it goes on and believe me they can get really heated about it.  And the language, techno jargon that most non-engineers can't even understand.

Top balancing works for me.