Friday, June 15, 2012

How to Hook up to the Open Revolt for DUMMIES


How to Hook up to the Open Revolt for DUMMIES

(Written by a dummy, so this authentic) I hope this saves someone out there a lot of pain and agony, like I went through.

First, you'll need a laptop. If that laptop has a RS232 connector then you're probably using an older computer. That is good. If it ONLY has USB ports then it's newer and probably runs Windows 7 like mine. This, as I found, complicates matters. This article deals mostly with the newer, USB based computer.

Next you'll need a cable. A USB to RS232 (or DB9) cable. There are many places to buy one. I found mine at a local computer store for about $20. Amazon.com sells them for about $15.

To go with that cable, you'll need a driver software. My cable came with a disc that had a lot of acronyms I didn't understand. Nothing said RS232. I read on the internet where some of these drivers weren't working anyway. So I did my own search on the internet to find an easy plug and play driver. Like anything is Easy?!!

To make a long story short, many companies that sell cables have some sort of PROLITHIC brand driver out there that they sell with their cable. They are NOT all the same. After 5 hours of install/uninstall/test/Code 10 errors/why the @#$% isn't this working??????, and seeing the same version of PROLITHIC over and over again, I found this site:

http://www.usbfirewire.com/parts/rr-usb-017.html

This is a different version of the same driver and the first time installed, IT WORKED. This is where the bells are ringing, the angels are singing and the trial of driver install is over. I raise my hands to the heavens and shout, “Thank you, Lord!”

Back to the dummie part. You need to download and install the application RTD Explorer to your computer. I had no problem with this part. You can find it here:

http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html

At this point, there's a video on how to use the RTD Explorer and it is found here:


This is a good step by step guide of how to use the software. Pay close attention to how he types in the commands, you'll have to view full screen and notice you don't type commands into the black area, but you use the text box underneath the black area. But you might be wondering, what does Ki or CRR mean? There's a good discussion found here:


You can also see how some people, based on their vehicles, changed their settings by looking at this:


The main point here is your vehicle will probably be different that others. Mine is. Setting the correct throttle numbers is important to get the type of response I want. When I took a test drive after connecting the controller, it was sluggish and cut out on me when I tried to do 55 mph. NOT GOOD. The beauty of this controller is it's designed to be adapted to any electric vehicle at a great price.You should look at what others have used for their settings, and use something similar to your car then go from there.

Next, I put the rear of my car on jacks and had my wife sit in the car so I could see what's happening on the laptop. The cable I first bought was only 3 feet long, I later figured out I could buy a 25 foot long RS232 male to female cable for $7 and hook that to my 3 foot USB cord.  Then I could do this myself while sitting in the car. I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND you do this WHILE DRIVING. Talk about distracted driver looking to get a ticket or get into an accident. Just say NO. Therefore, I had my wife come with me, after a little on the job training she was able to tell me what was happening.

NOTE: Keep the RS232 cable as far away from the battery cables and battery pack as possible to avoid electronic interference.

To connect your laptop to your controller follow these steps:

  1. Start the car by turning on the pre-charger, after 8 seconds you should hear a click from the controller. Turn off the pre-charger.
  2. Start/open the RTD Explorer software on your computer.
  3. Connect the USB end of your cable to the computer. Look to see if the computer is installing the driver. This happened to me several times before the computer stopped doing this. If this does happen, wait for it to completely install. You can check to see if there's a problem by going to Start>Control Panel>Device Manager>see if there are any yellow triangles with an !, (that's bad.) Hopefully you won't.
  4. Connect the 9 pin end of the cable to the RS232 outlet on the controller. (Be careful not to touch any of the high voltage wires) My cable had built in screws as part of the cable, I removed them to get a solid connection.
  5. Hopefully you saw the COM# that was attached to your driver. When mine was installed it said COM15. (You can also see this by going to Start, then Control Panel, then Device Manager, then look for your communication port, open it and see the number assigned) Go to the COMMUNICATION tab at the top right of the screen. Click and choose COM PORT then “other” and type in the number of your COM and click OK. Now go back to the COMMUNICATION tab and choose “connect.” The little green light on the bottom middle should start blinking and the Black box area should start to show some text. All of your current settings should appear.

To Change a setting:

1. To change a setting, you must type the command into the text box below the Black area. If I want to change the Ki setting to 20, I type in ki 20 and hit enter. The black area acknowledges what I did. I must now save it to the EE. So I type save and it does that. To see that the change has taken place, I type in config and all the settings are displayed in the black area. I should now see that Ki setting is 20 like I typed in.
  1. To see all the commands, they are listed under the HELP tab at the top middle of the menu bar, then choose command list.

You'll need to change your throttle setting.

I had my wife place the car out of gear and hit the accelerator all the way down briefly. The max number in the upper right hand corner read 718. So I changed the setting by typing in t-max-rc 720, then I saved and typed in config just to make sure the change happened. The min throttle setting was 400, when my wife's foot was off the pedal, it read 000, so I changed that by typing in t-min-rc 110 and once again hit save and config. I love it when a plan comes together!

(Note: this lead to a High Throttle Lockout for me.  Maybe I typed it in wrong?  Either way, proceed with caution!)

 
Overall Settings

(This is based on my Bradley GT II, 144V, 100 AH Lithium Batts, 2,000 lbs gross??)
Kp 2 Ki 11 t-pos-gain 17 t-pmw-gain 0 c-rr 6 t-min-rc 110 t-max -rc 720

(Note: I ended up going back to the defaults, then everything worked fine.)


Finally, I took it for a test drive. I went about 8 miles and am pleased with the response of the controller. My previous Kilovac controller always had a jerk when you pressed down on the accelerator, then it would get sluggish as it gained speed. The Open Revolt is very smooth. I took it on the highway at 55 mph with no problems.

The only problem I do anticipate is 178 amps is the most I can draw while climbing a hill, and I have a lot of hills. That's my next test.



Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Open Revolt Controller

My new controller came in the mail today.  After a quick install, I was on the road.  The only difference is the M buss bar is in the back and not in the front with the B+ and B- connections.  This worked out well due to the way the controller is positioned, I didn't even need to find a longer cable to reach.  Another change, the controller turns on your contactor after an 8 second precharge.  Of course you have to remember to flip the switch to turn on the precharger first. Since I had previously put the contractor on a switch, this worked out well.  The sticker didn't come with it, I printed it out from the website and put it on with some clear packing tape. I think it looks cool!



The acceleration is good but I can tweek that later on.  I haven't dove into checking out the programming but so far so good.  I drove a few miles for a quick test drive.  Checked the heat on the bottom, yes, a little warm but that's to be expected.  I did set the controller on a heat sink with a fan going underneath.  Then went to the store to get some groceries.  Again, no problems.  Next will be a 55 mph test drive.  BTW, it's very quiet, unlike the squeeling Curtis.

Paul Mitchell put the thing together for me.  I believe he's out of Seattle, you can see his ad on DIYelectriccar formum or EV Trading Post.

Saturday, May 26, 2012

From 156V to 144V

My new controller will be a 144V 500 amp, Open Revolt controller.  My battery pack was 156V, then I killed two of them (overcharge incident, see previous post) and it just seemed to make sense to take out two more and go with 144V since I'm saving a boatload of money on the controller.

Rather than just rewiring the existing set up and skipping over two more batteries, I decided to actually remove three of the batteries.  This meant I had to bust open three of the packs.  The screws that hold the straps are hard to get off and I found that using a grinder made it a whole lot easier.  Besides, unless you have the right compression tools, trying to put these straps back on are a pain in the butt!  After the straps were off I was able to step a 6 pack down to a 4 pack and a 5 pack down to a 4 pack and replace a battery in a 5 pack.  I used Gorilla duct tape to bind then together with the end plates and then placed those packs in the middle of each bank.  Last, I bound each bank together with a cargo tie.  This created some neat, organized looking blocks.

Instead of busting open a fourth pack, a 6 pack, I found it easier to tape off one battery and just add it to the pack in the rear.  So, I ended up with 15 in front (3X5) and 29 in back (6X4+1X6 (-1)).  Wow, that's looks like a complicated math formula.

Anytime I get into tearing apart a battery bank, I always let my wife know so she can check on me.  I use tools that are wrapped in electrical tape, remove any metal on my body, wear gloves and always think about where both hands are placed.  I take my time and double check the polarity of any connection.  Sparks are bad and there shouldn't be any at all.

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Open Revolt Ordered/Pre-charger Wired

OPEN REVOLT CONTROLLER
I went ahead and sent some money to the guy who is going to build a controller for me.  (You can see his ad on EV Trading Post) There's plenty of stuff on Youtube about the Open Revolt controller and there's also 30 EV owners that are using them as listed on EV Album.  The primary idea was to create an open source way for people to either build a controller themselves or have one built for them.  As I mentioned in the last blog, controllers aren't cheap.  A person with good soldering skills can build an Open Revolt for about $350.  I'm having one built for $700.  That's still about $900 cheaper than a commercial off the self comparable item.  The only draw back is having to wait for a week and a half until it is built.  I am missing prime EV driving time!

PRE-CHARGER
There is a pre-charger requirement for this controller. Look at this:

 http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25419

A well written article on how and why to pre-charge.  After reading that, I went outside to the shop and wired my contactor to a separate switch instead of coming on automatically with the 12V switch.  I then wired a high voltage relay to act as a pre-charger.
 
Since I won't need heat anytime soon I used the heater relay. (Guess I'll need to order another one from MINIBMS) I put one of my extra LED resistors in the high voltage line going to the controller.


The start sequence will be like this --
turn on the 12V switch,
then turn on the pre-charger.
Now wait for the controller supercaps to match the battery pack voltage,
hit the contactor switch,
now turn off the pre-charger and you're ready to drive.

And of course, while I was doing all this I tested my contactor and it too was fried from the controller melt down that happened yesterday. So.... I dragged out the old Curtis Albright that I had sitting around and it still works just fine.  I like it when Plan B works.

Friday, May 18, 2012

Blown Controller - ARGH!!

This was the completion of my first week of commuting to and from work.  Over 50 miles round trip each day completed and I was anticipating writing this blog entry as I was driving home when BANG!!! Something in the back sounded like a gunshot and the car died.  I pulled over and got out to see what had happened.  I immediately noticed the 250 amp circuit breaker was popped and thought maybe I exceeded 250 coming up the hill.  (But why would it make the big noise?) I flipped the switch, got back in the car and turned everything on and got the "bat outta hell" broken controller syndrome. That's where the motor goes from 0 to 4K rpms in like no time flat.  I quickly hit the two BIG RED disconnects and turned off the 12v power.  Got out of the car again and took a look only to see....
Look at all that black soot!  And the smell of something electrical having shorted.  Yeah, this baby is dead as a doornail.  Toasted to a crackly crunch.

It's not my fault!!! Really, most Kilovacs have managed to get fried one way or another, the manufacturer renamed themselves to Altrax and now they only do low voltage controllers. This one was rebuilt probably four years ago so I expected it to last forever.  Looks like that didn't happen. So what's out there to buy?

Replacing a controller is easy.  Having to dish out the loot for one is "not so much" easy.  There are some great "kick ass" ones for thousands of dollars and there are some crappy ones for over a thousand bucks. There's also this Open Revolt 144V 500 amp controller that a guy makes for you at $700 bucks but you have to wait a couple weeks. I would have to eliminate a couple batteries from my pack to slim down to 144V nominal. Hmmmmmm, let me think over night about this and I'll have to talk with my wifey too.  : )

Sunday, May 13, 2012

GT I Electric?/Balancing Act

GT I Electric?
No kidding, the Bradley Company actually made one GT I all electric car.  I saw it on the Bradley GT site. See this thread
http://bradleygt.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=1166

Balancing Act

The Bradley isn't balanced right as far as equal weight distribution.  Some folks have placed their 12V battery in the front of the car to help even out the load. One would think that the added weight of my lithium batteries in the front would overcompensate for the missing gas tank. But I noticed how the front tires seemed to not get the same traction as the back and on gravel, coming around a curve, it felt like I could lose traction all together.

I tried what others have done and added a dead 12V battery to the front.  At 38lbs, it seems to work quite well.  Notice I placed it on the chassis and not the battery box.  It doesn't interfere with the steering stabilizer.

Later, I decided to remove this battery as I didn't have a way to completely secure it and it got in the way of the steering stabilizer.


Happy Mother's Day!

Stop what you're doing and at least call your Mother.  Let's call it some sound advice not only from a blogger but elsewhere that's good for the soul.

My Mother-in-Law got to see my Bradley today and it is 100% Mother-in-Law approved.  She told me stories of a 1947 Willey's Jeep that they had restored and how it had been passed down from father to son to brother to grandson,used in parades, etc...

I hope my car will last that long.  30 years old so far, not counting the life of the 67 chassis underneath.  To celebrate I took it for a 24 mile drive doing 50+ the whole way; used 6.56 KWh.

 It's ready to drive to work tomorrow.