Transaxle Removal

Let's see... the last time I attempted this I realized that I needed some help.  Either a guide, For Dummies book, whatever - the typed directions I was finding on the internet did no good.  I did manage to find this gem of a DVD series called Bug Me.  The 5th DVD is about the transaxle removal, rebuild, CV joints, etc...

Visual learners rejoice!!! For about $30 this can be yours too.  Believe me this really is worth it! This will show you step by step what to do - well almost.
You'll need some more tools, if you don't have them already.  A 36mm socket, with a 1/2 drive breaker bar, and a 8 mm little open end wrench, plus a homemade piece of metal (I'll explain later)

The DVD does a good job of showing how to disconnect the clutch wire, brake lights connection, and demos the separation of the nose mount in the tunnel area to transaxle stem.  This was the hardest part for me, since it didn't want to come loose from the transaxle.  I ended up having to take the thing apart, which still didn't release the transaxle.  It was during that process that I had to make a piece of bracing that was wide enough to stop the 8mm screw from turning. Strange they didn't show that one on the video.

Next came unbolting three bolts behind the brake drums.  He shows how and tells you need to also take off the bottom shock bolt but, alas, he doesn't show that.  You can't completely remove one of the bolts unless you take out the shock bottom bolt first.

In the picture, it's the bolt that is at the bottom of the rubber conical bumper that is almost impossible to remove with the bottom shock bolt still attached. Now you take off the drum, and remove the four bolts that hold the backing plate.
Yes, the brake drum must come completely off the axle.  IT WILL LEAK.  And what came out, smelled really foul!
It's at this point that I had to keep yanking on the transaxle to loosen and finally break free from that shifting mount in the tunnel.
From, there's it try to steady the odd shaped transaxle so you can lift above the bars it sits on and lower it to the ground.  I don't have a transmission mount and the motorcycle jack is too big. So I improvised with a piece of wood.

Once cleared, I lowered it, took it off the jack and placed on two 2X4s so the clutch wouldn't get damaged.  Now, it's time to clean.

I used cardboard underneath because the spray from the engine bright cleaner was going to go everywhere if I wasn't careful.

Here you see a new grounding strap is going to be needed.

After a couple hours if scrapping with a knife, scouring with a pad, and wiping with some shop towels, I can actually see the serial numbers.  This was painted black at one point in time. One of the boots looks like it will need to be replaced pretty soon.  I think now is a good time.