The front disc brakes (remember they're EMPI) were starting to make some very annoying noises. Every bump resulted in a clunk, ching, klank. I finally got around to tearing into them and discovered the bolts I had jerry-rigged to work as a replacement for the special order reduced head metric bolt (good luck trying to find those at the local auto parts store) were coming loose. Previously, I ended up using allen head bolts for the back brakes and thought this might be the best solution for the front. At $1 each, they better work. The only thing is the matching lock washers are larger than the head and therefore will rub against the rotor. However, once I did a test drive, the sound difference was practically night and day. Some blue threadlock makes up for the lack of a lock washer.
****************************************************************************
I didn't get to drive "Big Red" as often as I wanted to these past couple weeks. The fires in WA state are blowing smoke everywhere. The EPA has rated some areas as "hazardous." I don't have a way to filter the air coming into the car and am not found of breathing in a chain smoker's daily intake while I drive to and from work.
At least there's been a slight wind blowing most of the air out for the last couple days.
Sunday, September 23, 2012
Sunday, September 9, 2012
Rear Brakes...the saga continues.
If you've read the previous entries, I bought cheap EMPI rear disc brakes. They have continued to shake, rattle and roll despite my best effort to quiet them down. The main problem is the brake plate that attaches to the axles is slightly loose.
Today, I was going to fix this once and for all. Previously, I had replaced the bolts and that did help but as I looked I could see where the bolts were slightly longer and therefore bottoming out in the threaded holes. I added a second locknut to each bolt. This helped slightly but still the plate was slightly loose. The next thing I considered was the gasket that I was using. If you've ever ordered the kit from one of the VW online places the kit is made in Mexico and the gasket is thin as paper and therefore "el cheapo." Exactly how many layers of silicone can you add to this whimpy piece of paper?? I went to NAPA and bought a variety pack of gasket material for $10. With 5 different sheets , I was certain something would work. I figured I'd go big to begin with -- 1/8 inch thick. Got out the razor knife and went to town.
This gasket is a combination rubber/cork and it worked very well. This made the plates solid and the bolts didn't bottom out. Very tight seal.
I took my Bradley for a test drive. Wow! What a difference. The back area is completely silent.
Now to attack the front disc brake plates...same problem as the back.
Another thing I did was to replace the coil over shocks in the back with some nice Gabriel HiJackers - air shocks. The last time I installed a pair of these was back in 1978 on an old Mustang II that I drove. Easy to install and 100lbs of pressure seemed to work just right. Along my commute there were a couple dips that would cause my back end to bottom out, this was after the coil overs were set to the highest setting. This addition made the difference and cut down on the spring noise that was happening as well. I probably should have started with these to begin with. The best price was in town at Autozone - $69. Online at JC Whitney was $99.
Today, I was going to fix this once and for all. Previously, I had replaced the bolts and that did help but as I looked I could see where the bolts were slightly longer and therefore bottoming out in the threaded holes. I added a second locknut to each bolt. This helped slightly but still the plate was slightly loose. The next thing I considered was the gasket that I was using. If you've ever ordered the kit from one of the VW online places the kit is made in Mexico and the gasket is thin as paper and therefore "el cheapo." Exactly how many layers of silicone can you add to this whimpy piece of paper?? I went to NAPA and bought a variety pack of gasket material for $10. With 5 different sheets , I was certain something would work. I figured I'd go big to begin with -- 1/8 inch thick. Got out the razor knife and went to town.
I took my Bradley for a test drive. Wow! What a difference. The back area is completely silent.
Now to attack the front disc brake plates...same problem as the back.
Another thing I did was to replace the coil over shocks in the back with some nice Gabriel HiJackers - air shocks. The last time I installed a pair of these was back in 1978 on an old Mustang II that I drove. Easy to install and 100lbs of pressure seemed to work just right. Along my commute there were a couple dips that would cause my back end to bottom out, this was after the coil overs were set to the highest setting. This addition made the difference and cut down on the spring noise that was happening as well. I probably should have started with these to begin with. The best price was in town at Autozone - $69. Online at JC Whitney was $99.
Fire! Yikes!!
There I was, doing a maintenance thing on the car. One of my instruments wasn't working correctly and needed to be rewired. I had hit the quick disconnects for the high voltage battery pack and also disconnected the DC to DC Converter from the main pack. By accident the 12V source going into the instrument fell out and sparked, my thought is "Dog gone it, now I'll have to replace the fuse.." But it didn't stop sparking, oh no, it started on fire, then the wires got so hot they started to melt the plastic....I frantically looked for my fire extinguisher...then realized I didn't disconnect the 12V battery and the wire was coming straight from the battery without a fuse. Quickly I grabbed the wire cutters and clipped the wires from the 12V battery. It stopped the fire but in the process, my three car garage was filled with smoke and now there was some charred wires that needed to be replaced.
Lesson learned....always put a fuse in any line that goes anywhere. Disconnect the 12V battery as well, not just the DC to DC.
In addition to the line in question getting fried, it also took out two other wires in the process. Probably 4 hours later, I had it fixed. A little extra thought would have prevented this.
Yes, I'm embarrassed but maybe this will help someone else NOT go through this experience.
Lesson learned....always put a fuse in any line that goes anywhere. Disconnect the 12V battery as well, not just the DC to DC.
In addition to the line in question getting fried, it also took out two other wires in the process. Probably 4 hours later, I had it fixed. A little extra thought would have prevented this.
Yes, I'm embarrassed but maybe this will help someone else NOT go through this experience.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)