What's WATT Doc?

EVers like to brag about how efficient their cars are.

 "My car only uses 200 wh per mile!" 
"Oh yeah, mine gets 180.! So there, nanny nanny boo boo."

So how's my car performing.....it's sucking amps....big time.

I drive 31 miles, lots of hills, pulling about 200 AH going up the steep ones, (I could do more -- evil EV grin.)

31 miles - the trip to work draws 9 KWh = 290 wh per mile

31 miles coming home draws 10.75 KWh = 346 wh per mile

You're probably asking how much of an impact did the DC to DC make to your energy usage?
Good question.  Unfortunately the only data I have is from my usual route that is only 25 miles long, you know...the route that is closed because they are rebuilding a bridge.  I was averaging right about 290 wh per mile then.  So....

Thank goodness I can recharge at work.  But sucking 16 AH at 120V takes a long time to fill up my pack. That's close to 6 hours.  If I can hook up to the 220V outlet, that would really cut down my recharge time.  Being able to suck 20 Amps at 220V would be awesome!

UPDATE:  I finally got the 220V to work.  This is the beauty of owning a Manzanita Micro PFC charger.  It will take either 120 or 220 by just plugging it into the charger. By sucking 15 amps at 220 I'm recharged in about 3 hours.  Yee Haw!  I say that because I have to share the charging station with a guy that drives a  Miles EV.  Fortunately, his motor went kaputz and I've had the station to myself lately.  BTW, I'm using some heavy duty wire that's rated at 250V 30 Amps.

PowerMax DC to DC Converter Installation

My 12V 60 AH Battery that I was using to power all my 12V stuff seemed to suffer when I took my last test drive.  The best solution is to use a DC to DC converter with the battery so you get the best of both worlds.  What does that mean, you might ask? For instance if all you did was run a DC to DC converter, if your pack was running low of if the DC to DC stopped working, you might not make it home.  If you ran only with a 12V battery like I have done for quite a while, it's all good until your 12V needs exhaust your battery before you get home or maybe you forgot to charge the battery --- oops!

By hooking up the DC to DC converter to a 12V battery if one fails the other will take over.  Thus, the best of both worlds.

How to install.  First, look at the prongs of the AC cord and note that the wire with all the writing on it is the positive.  Then cut the prong end off.  (Or leave it on and take another AC cord and cut it.  This would give you a quick disconnect.)  Separate the wires, strip them, then add some blue connectors for go on the positive and negative outputs of your high voltage battery pack. It's a good idea to hit your quick disconnects so you the pack is not at full voltage. (Always watch where you place both hands when making a connection, if you think you'll touch a metal trim, then wrap it in electrical tape. The trim, not your hand : ) 

The instructions said to test the 12V output with a voltmeter.  This didn't work for me because my voltmeter leads had come loose - oops.

Next I ran a large wire, (they suggest an 8) from the DC to DC to my 12V battery and made the connections.  I tested the DC to DC by disconnecting the 12V battery and yes, all the 12V stuff worked.

Don't expect a light to come on or the fan to engage.  At least that was my experience, unless I test with a voltmeter, I wouldn't know if it was running.

There's another slot on the front to connect the unit to the car as a ground.  I didn't do that.  At least not yet. Maybe someone who knows better will criticize me and prompt me to do so.

I then took a 28 mile drive in 90 degree weather.  Lots of hills and winding roads to get to Lake Cle Elum.  I stopped once I got to the lake and checked everything out, the controller was barely warm, the DC to DC was not making any noise and the fan wasn't blowing. Overall, the car performed wonderfully.  I don't have to worry about my 12V battery running low, nor do I have to worry about my controller or motor overheating.  These additions have been worth it.

2nd Soliton Jr Cooling System Test in 97 Degree Heat

Maybe you weren't impressed with an 85 degree weather test I did yesterday, hey please remember I live in Washington State.  While the rest of the nation is being pounded by blistering heat, we're chilling.

Like the title says, it was a hot one today.  I intentionally waited until the hottest part then ran the same test as yesterday and using the tactile senor device, the results were the same.  (That was a 12 mile test including a 5% hill and then a 2 mile 3% grade.) Except for the 12V battery supply.  This time it wasn't low, I left my 12V 60 AH Lithium battery on a smart charger for most of the night and it was completely full.  Either way, I ordered a DC to DC converter from EV Car Parts and it should be here soon.

The next test will be going halfway to work - 12 miles, then turning around and coming back in the heat.

First Test Drive w/ Soliton Jr Cooling System

It's 85 degrees out and I'm ready for the first drive with the new cooling system I installed.  I drove approx 4 miles to the high school up one hill then checked everything out.  The motor was warm to the touch and the controller was cool to the touch.  OK, don't expect scientific data just good old fashioned "tactile sensory data."  (That means I used my hands.)  Everything looked good, no leaks no burning smells.

I then drove over to where I start my daily commute which has a 5% grade hill and, BTW, this is where the Open Revolt and Soliton Jr (without water cooling) both started to fail.  Speed limit is 35, I'm in 3rd gear pulling 150 - 200 amps.  Oops! I'm speeding.  (EV grin begins to widen)  OK, that was easy, let's move onto the gradual grade which follows.  This is probably a 3% grade for about two miles.  And once again, I'm having to watch my speed because it's very easy to go too fast.  Wow!! This stuff works.  I continued on for another mile and then turned around and came home. Total mileage was approx 12 miles.

Once I drove in the garage, I engaged the tactile sensory device again.  The controller was barely warm.  The motor was hot, but I noticed the fan wasn't blowing as hard.  Then a heard a click noise and saw a red trouble light on my controller.  I quickly connected the computer and saw the error was the 12V was too low.  My 60 AH Lithium battery was down to 9% charge and I had started with a 100% charge.  Granted, I've been running this battery for a couple years now so the capacity should be lower.  I never did bother to balance the cells since it was set up as a 12V battery. As much as I love this cooling system, it does suck some amps.  Looks like it's time for a DC to DC converter.  The only problem is when I asked the question, "which DC to DC do you prefer?" to the EVnetics guys; the answer wasn't encouraging.  They don't like any, they hope to build one that will outperform all others but haven't gotten around to it yet.

As it stands, I either need to get a larger 12V power source or try my luck with a DC to DC converter. Of course I could always attach my battery to the DC to DC so I get the best of both worlds. Right now, with my current 12V and the cooling system on for my entire commute home (when it's 90+ degrees), it won't make it.

Motor Cooling Fan Installation

I had tried this before but because my motor was installed at the 3 o'clock position, a bottom position fan wasn't going to work.  I sent the collar and rubber mat parts back to EV Source and asked for the top mount instead.
Here's what the entire kit looks like.

They replied that the manufacturer doesn't make those anymore and with little effort you can adapt what you have to work.  The more I thought about this, the more it made sense.  When the two piece collar came back to me, I noticed that if I flip flopped the one piece and cut the mat in the middle I should be able to line everything up.  Sure enough, it worked. (the pict above shows this) I did use some Gorilla duct tape to mate the rubber mat together again after I had cut it.

To install the collar you need to remove all the motor cables.  It's a good idea to disconnect your battery pack at the Big Anderson Connector so you have 0 voltage flowing anywhere nearby, just as a precaution. Now you position the rubber mat, I then used some more of the Gorilla duct tape to tape the two ends together so it would not get in the way of installing the metal collar pieces.  The one piece with the holes gave me a little bit of problems at first but with some manipulation it finally went on. Now you have to insert the blow hole piece into the matching collar piece.  The directions included will make this pretty clear. When you bolt the two pieces together make sure you make the first two bolts (on one end) very loose, otherwise it will be hard to get the other end on.  I then used a vice grip to squeeze the ends together so I could tighten up the bolts much easier.  This will be an air tight fit when done.

Next, I needed to install the fan motor.  I chose to place the motor behind the driver side back wheel up in the area behind the turn signal.  The aerodynamics of the wheel well catches the air and shoots it up into that area but any water or dirt from the tire is blocked by the existing wall.

The K & N filter that's attached will help block out any dirt, dust, etc that might fly up there.  It's easy to remove this motor to replace the filter.  I went ahead and tested the system by hooking it directly up to a 12V battery I had sitting around.  Wow!  Does this thing blow...I can feel air coming out the other end of the motor and even the bolt holes in the back plate.  This should do the trick.

Overall this system was ideally made for a front hood area installation as most cars are front wheel drive. The fact I have a rear area motor just makes for a good challenge. : )

Finally, I'll need to install the fully pre-wired relay assembly.  That should be a snap, but I'm going to wait until tomorrow.  With luck I should be back on the road this weekend.  With my luck the weather will get cool and I won't get a good test with 100+ degree heat.

New Water Cooling Adaptors for Soliton Jr Controller

As you may recall, I installed the EV Source water cooling kit for my new Soliton Jr Controller but the adaptors they sent didn't work, they were too fat to sit next to each other. I took the advice from DIYelectric car forum and ordered some 1/8 NPT X 3/8 barb, and a couple reducers - 1/2 barb X 3/8 barb.   I did notice a small leak from the radiator.  I had neglected to use some teflon tape when screwing the hose adaptors in, (these are the weak link in the system - a cheap plastic) once I fixed that I ran the system for about 10 minutes and everything seems to be good to go! Now I just need to secure the lines in place.  My biggest concern is the system might leak and spill onto/into the motor, which could possibly kill it.  That would be very, very bad!!!