Yikes!!

So I pulled the old transaxle and am getting ready for the arrival of the rebuilt Freeway Flyer I bought.  Either way, the old axles need to come off.  I went back to the BugMe Video to see how to do it.  It's not very complicated but can be somewhat time consuming.  Here's a tip: if you're going to use regular needle nose pliers to take out the snap ring, bend the ends slightly inward with a hammer.

To take off the axles you also need to take off the tubes that the axles are in.  Once I did this look at what I found...

The axle is badly scored and there's large build up of metal deposits on the end.  This lead to the failure of the axle bearing.

This is what it should look like.  Yes, this is the other side of the transaxle.

These are the inner racers and the camera doesn't quite show how one side is badly scored compared to the other.

With that much metal deposit floating around in the oil, I'll need to dump it and clean the axle tubes.  I sprayed the inside of each tube with WD40 then took a shop towel and pushed it out the other end with a long cheater bar.

The one side looks great, I should be able to use the tube, bearing, racers, etc.  The other side will need new racers, bearing.  The tube is scored on the inside but I'm pretty sure I can clean it up to work.

How to Know if You Have Bad Transaxle

Gee, it looks normal.....

From the Chirco site:

There is knocking noise at low speeds.
The driveaxle constant velocity (CV) joint(s) are worn.
Noise most pronounced when turning.
There is differential gear noise.
Clunk on acceleration or deceleration
The engine or transaxle mounts are loose.
The differential pinion shaft in case if worn.
The damaged driveaxle CV joints are worn.



Read this from Rob and Dave's VW Shadtree Mechanic site:
http://www.vw-resource.com/transmission_troubleshooting.html

So, here were my problems:
- Pops out of 3rd
- clunking noise at low speeds
- Rumble, vibration in the back (more of a bearings issue)
- At start up, couldn't find reverse, keeps going into 2nd
- After driving, can't find 2nd, wants to go to reverse

Previously, I took the transaxle out to replace the mounts and change the oil, (who knows how long ago that was done?)  So taking it out this time was fast - a mere 2 hours.  (Hey, I'm getting good at this! )

Here's another bad sign that your tranny is going South.
- My new synthetic oil was black with  shiny metal flakes
- Also the drain plug was clogged with metal shavings

So, what now?  Do I rebuild?  Nope, I don't have the tools.  Granted there are some great videos that take you step by step but this is more than I can chew.
 Next, is to let your fingers do the walking.  Pick up the phone and see if someone will rebuild or swap.  What I found was limited resources, those that have trannys in stock aren't cheap and the one guy in WA that will rebuild wasn't even sure he could rebuild because 6V parts are getting hard to find.  Most repair shops don't do rebuilds anymore, they order from larger companies that have a 3 - 4 week delay.

I decided I was going to have to suck it up and buy a 12V tranny from somewhere and probably have it shipped.  I finally found a place in CA, Lowbugget.com, they had a Freeway Flyer in stock with new axles for less than the cost of a rebuild.  YEEHAW!!  OK, I have to pay for the core charge and shipping but I should get it next week.  That's means I should be able to enjoy the Bradley for a while before the winter blows in.

Wiring - the last LED Show

OK, I've had it with these LEDs so I'm throwing them out!!!  

Just kidding....they have been frustrating but, thank God, I finally found the solution.

I found these babies on EBay, $20 for 4 and that included shipping.  (The package says 50W/6ohm ) They do get warm though so I'll probably clamp them to the metal support bar next to it.  I put one on the right, left and 3rd brake light.  Easy to install.  Next, I'll try the hazards...with my fingers crossed. : ) 
If you're asking why they work, I'm not really sure.  Obviously these LEDs don't have resistors in them, the electronic relays that I bought may not be really the ones that work on LEDs, either way it's water under the bridge.